Train to Kunming

We drew the short straw on this one. The bunks were open to the corridor, and the train was much shabbier. I'd had the notion that I'd never be able to abide the ubiquitous smoke, so I decided to join them. Yes, I procured a tin of quality Dutch cigars in Xi'an, and joined the fug in the smoking area (the corridor just outside the sleeping cabin, so that the smoke might waft in and please those who weren't smoking at that moment). The toilets overflowed and the beds gave me a backache, but it wasn't so bad.